Insight Guides: Croatia by Insight Guides

Author:Insight Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Croatia
Publisher: APA
Published: 2014-07-21T04:00:00+00:00

Central Dalmatia enjoys the sunniest weather in Croatia, with more than 200 days of sunshine a year. However, beware the bura, a chilly and fierce wind that rips along the coast in the colder months, playing havoc with the ferry services.

South to the Makarska Riviera

South of Split, the Magistrala runs through some of Europe’s loveliest coastal scenery. The Biokovo Mountains sweep precipitously up one flank in a massif of karst hulks and forested ravines, while on the other, the coastline is punctuated by bays and coves, with the islands of Brač and Hvar glittering just offshore. Expect to spend the first 30 minutes of the drive out of Split trying to shake off its suburbs and the mushrooming complexes of holiday homes on the way to the heavily developed Makarska Riviera, the equivalent of the Spanish costas for Croatians, Bosnians and citizens of the former Soviet Bloc. Despite the sometimes down-market resorts and eyesores that pass for hotel developments, the glorious mountains and sea are ever present, as are long, clean shingle beaches backed by pine trees.

But before you reach the Makarska Riviera, you pass the small town of Omiš, which straddles the mouth of Cetina River and sits in the shelter of its canyon. This delightful little town is one of the most atmospheric spots to listen to klapa singing heard all along the Dalmatian coast, and here it’s celebrated every summer in a particularly rousing festival in July. Listening to these melodious sounds today, it’s hard to imagine that Omiš was the home of fearsome pirates during the Middle Ages, whose exploits are still celebrated today in the Pirate Night festival held every August.

The first substantial resort of the Makarska Riviera is Brela 4 [map], probably the most tasteful and understated, though it gets very busy in high season and finding a room can be a problem. To the north and south are sweeping beaches with a line of pine trees set just back from the shingle to provide shade during the hottest hours of the day. Brela sprawls across a large area, but the old town is surprisingly compact with twisting narrow streets leading seawards.

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